Cervejaria da Esquina

Tuna steak sandwich! This is the only thing I can actually tell you about this restaurant – because it was the only thing I have actually eaten there. And still, I am writing about it – it should tell you something…

I was having a late afternoon drink with a couple of friends in the beautifully classic Estrela Garden, right in the middle of Lisbon, when we decided to have dinner. Where to go, we don’t want to get the cars, lets walk, somewhere not too expensive but still interesting,.. – “let’s go to Cervejaria da Esquina and taste a tuna steak sandwich!” said one of us. So, we walked up to Campo de Ourique, one of the charmiest neighbourhoods in Lisbon, with its simple beginning of the XX century architecture, it’s small gardens and squares, its shops and a couple of good places to have dinner. There we would find Cervejaria da Esquina. “Cervejaria” is the Portuguese word of brewery – though, actually, many of those places don’t brew beer anymore. But you can expect good steaks and butter sauces in any cervejaria, as well as fresh shellfish. Now, what was setting this place apart from any of the others is that it is actually owned by one of the trendiest Portuguese chefs – Vitor Sobral – who aims at blending the traditional definition of cervejaria with a modern touch.

Now, I really can’t speak much about all of these. The dining room was bright and sober, with shellfish being exhibited, like it should be in a cervejaria. And I can’t speak much about the food because we went there with a clear objective – the tuna steak sandwich. And we focused on it. And that was a very good choice! It is quite simple – it basically is a tuna steak in a roll bread, no rocket science. But when the tuna is fresh, delicious, juicy, with that strong red-meaty fish taste that fills your mouth and leaves room for nothing else, in a typically rich and savoured Portuguese roll bread, than, you don’t need any other to know you will come again. And that is why I am recommending, more than a restaurant, a specific entrée, that is just actually a simple sandwich – because it is so good and mouth-watering!

You like tuna, you are in Lisbon looking for a quick and simple dinner – let me recommend you this place. Then, tell me if you agree with me!

Where: Lisboa - Portugal

Address: Rua Correia Teles, 56

Phone: +351 21 387 4644

Website: http://cervejariadaesquina.com/

Expensive: 1 tuna steak sandwich and a beer will cost you less than €10.

Last visit: May 2012

Koffmann's

Until a few years ago, I must say I had a bias against hotel restaurants – I usually saw them as part of the hotel and usually an alternative choice for someone who couldn’t actually go out for a dinner. And then I went to the US and everything changed.

Koffmann’s is located in the Berkeley Hotel, a posh hotel in the very centre of London, in Knightsbridge. And, let me tell you, this is actually a very good choice if a posh night is what you want. First, the hotel entrance, the atmosphere, the decoration as you move through the Blue Bar to the restaurant, the ambience in Koffmann’s itself. It involves you. It wraps you in a posh 70’s atmosphere, a classic modernism that is not decadent (but could almost be).

Then, the food. And this is a Pierre Koffmann restaurant. So, prepare for some good food – informal, but still French style. So, and from a Portuguese perspective (and I bet an American as well), just remember the food will be good… but small…  The menu has very good starters listed, including scallops, Spanish ham and a vegetarian combination of artichokes and green beans. Entrees include codfish with herb-sauce (yes, of course that being Portuguese one of my friends ordered it… and it was good! But my mom does it better…), a great honey glazed duckling (that seemed to actually dissolve slowly in your mouth) and beef cheeks in red wine. Just remember to order some nice red wine (French?) to make sure you rhythm your choice with sweet flavours and tones. Ah! Desserts! I am very conservative in this area – I went for a fresh and delicious pineapple carpaccio (that I strongly recommend), but you may also choose a lemon tart with sorbet or a vanilla pannacotta with rhubarb.

Koffmann’s is a very good choice for your dinner on a posh night out. The food is great, the atmosphere excellent and at the end you can slip to the next room to the famous Blue Bar with its blue decoration (what a surprise…) and exquisite cocktails. What to impress your new stylish girlfriend in London? I would take her here!

Where: London – United Kingdom

Address: The Berkeley – Wilton Place – Knightsbridge SW1X 7RL

Phone: +44 20 7235 6000

Expensive: Around €80

Last visit: May 2012

Belcanto

Once in a while, you have to go to a really posh restaurant! And, let me tell you, to go to a molecular cuisine one that is aiming to its first Michelin star might be a really good experience. And least, that’s what I felt from Belcanto.

Belcanto is the new restaurant from José de Avillez, one of Portugal’s prime (and younger) chefs. The restaurant exists since 1958, just next to the house where the Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was born and São Carlos Opera House – hence its name. The building is a classical one – both out and indoors. The exception is the small corner, where you can read one of Pessoa’s most famous quotes – “Para ser grade sê inteiro”, “To be big, be whole” (the translate is a bit lose, as it always is in poetry). As always, in Portugal, don’t even think in going there before 20h30 – we went there at 20h as we had tickets for a play…. And we were the only ones there for quite a while.

Now, as soon as you sit down, you will start to be served starters or amuse-bouches – molecular style. First the traditional bread and butter (but actually, part of the butter assortment includes a walnut one), then a cod and grain crisp (yes, it really tastes like cod and grain, the traditional Portuguese way), then something else weird and with an unexpected flavour. Looking at the menu, you can also have a glimpse of some out-of-the-ordinary starters and entrees: a “Horta da Galinha dos Ovos de Ouro” (can be loosely translated as “The Goose that laid the golden eggs small farm”, a delicious entrée made of egg, mushrooms and bread – but just keep in mind that in Portuguese the story in about a chicken and not a goose), a “Paisagem Alentejana” (a special way to prepare pig hands), a “Mergulho no Mar” (a seabass with seaweeds and clams), “Ovos à Professor” (a special type of eggs and sausage that actually seems quite fatty) or a “Strogonoff” (that seems to actually be a sinderloin steak and scrambled eggs entrée). And believe me, the textures, the flavours, are absolutely as surprising as the names!

Just make sure you do two things – you pick up a nice Portuguese wine to ignite the flavours, tastes and smells in your mouth. And you choose a nice dessert to round up your meal – and believe me, the names of those dessert dishes are as surprising as of the starters and entrees… and equally delicious!

When we were in Belcanto, we had a terrific experience – part of it trying to guess what was behind each amuse-bouche or name in the menu. We were also trying to guess if the woman behind us, dining by herself and always taking notes on her moleskin was from the “tyre company guide” (the Michelin one). If you want a dinner to impress in Lisbon, just before going to watch a play or an opera, I would strongly recommend Belcanto

Where: Lisboa - Portugal

Address: Largo de São Carlos, 10

Phone: +351 21 342 0607

Website: www.joseavillez.pt

Expensive: Yes! Quite, for Portugal! Think of a dinner to be over €70.

Last visit: April 2012

Ton Hoi

It is neither in the nicest location (on the side of a heavy traffic road) nor the prettiest building (from the outside, it looks like an adapted garage) but, if you like Chinese food, this is a place to go in São Paulo!

Ton Hoi has been open for the past 40 years – and started from a small shack to an established restaurant for oriental descendants and Chinese food lovers. It is usual to see long queues at its door (my friend, book it beforehand, believe me!), trying to get a table in the small 2 floors simply decorated dining room. And this restaurant owns it to its food!

The chop sueys, the shrimp tza tsi ra, the Beijing duck, the egg macaroni, the wan-tan soups – everything is delicious, with the right mix between tenderness and “biteness” and with the rich Chinese taste. Believe me, it is a pleasure for your senses! I was lucky enough to go there with long-time customers that really know the menu and were able to drive me through the richness of it – directing me to their favourite entrees. But you can’t get it wrong in this place – everything seems delicious!

Ton Hoi is for Chinese food lovers – but only for the ones that know how to move around São Paulo. The restaurant is not exactly in the centre of the city or in an usual tourist path. But the food… believe me, it is worthy!

Where: São Paulo - Brasil

Address: Avenida Professo Francisco Morato, 1484 – Jardins Guedala

Phone: +55 11 3721 3268

Website: http://www.tonhoi.com.br/

Expensive: For São Paulo, believe me, it is not expensive at all!

Last visit: February 2012

Brunello de Montalcino

The first I met Brunello was almost 10 years ago. Me and my friends were staying near San Gimigniano for a week, bathing in Tuscan culture (Florence, Siena, Lucca, Pisa…). We had reserved a couple of days to car tour along some small vineyards and villages, to taste a few Chianti and ham and cheese, to feel the flavour of the country side. Montalcino was a surprise – and it’s wine a wonder. We decided to buy out a few cases from the old cellar – getting them through customs and the plane was a funny challenge.

But, now, every time I see it in the menu of a nice Italian restaurant, I think of those days, under a shy February Sun, enjoying this wine in a rock, old, cellar. And when I taste it, though in such a different place, I marvel myself at the tender, sensitive fumes of this great wine, how it is sweet and delicate but still able to leave a strong imprint and signature in my mount. This is my first choice for a fine and delicate pasta entrée. Will you agree with me?

La Taverna dei Fori Imperiale

I was lucky! A friend of mine introduced me to this restaurant - a small, almost hidden in a back street restaurant, with a warmth feel and great food! A definitive and easy choice if you are in Rome and want to taste the real deal. 

La Taverna dei Fori Imperiale is exactly where it's name points out - right next to the Imperial Forum in the center of Rome. It is in a small, cobblestone, windy street that runs kind of parallel to Via Cavour. You have to look and find a small wooden door, and then to get inside, to a small, cramped dining room, that clearly has too many tables and seats. But the warmth and the nice waiters make up for that. 

Ah! And the food! The food is authentically Roman and, let me tell you, delicious! Even someone (me) who doesn't like pate cheered for the "crostini di fegattini alla Toscana" (it involves liver paté...) . Another good anti-pasto is the "guarciale amatriciano con brsuchetta" (combining a typical roman bacon with a bruschetta) or the simple and typical Parma ham with mozzarella or melon. For the "primo" (your first entrée), I would suggest that you ask the waiter for what's not in the menu - many times, you'll have great surprises, believe me! Still, you will find the raviolli with pesto of the canello with truffes to be amazing choices - and, if they are not available, I can easily endorse any pasta entrée in the menu. Ah! And don't forget a nice wine to go along your meal - it will make you feel even better, believe me!

This is a great place to get a real taste of Rome and Roman food! It is not too touristical, but the waiters speak very good English and are extremely nice. And the food my friends, the food is amazing!

Where: Roma - Italy
Address: Via Madonna dei Monti, 9
Phone: +39 06 6798643
Website: http://www.latavernadeiforiimperiali.com/english.htm
Expensive: Around €35 per person
Last visit: April 2012

Felice a Testaccio

I was in Rome for 2 weeks of work – and you know how Italian food is, absolutely incredible! The only problem is to actually pick the right places, which, being a foreign, are not necessarily the ones that will come across you on a high street. But I was luck – and this second week I was introduced to a couple of great Italian cuisine restaurants by two local friends. Felice is one of those marvellous restaurants that will make you crave for more.

It is a nice and quiet area of Rome, next to Piazza Testaccio – hence the name. It is has two small dining rooms, including the hall and bar. Sober decoration, but cosy, nothing that actually will make you ready for the full flavour of its food. It really let me yumming for more.

Claudio picked the wine and guided us through our choices. Prosciutto with mozzarella, a salad as anti-pasti / starters. Then, it was time to actually move on to the main courses – I must forewarn you that nobody picked a secondi / second entrée, a second dish, though the roasted lamb actually looked and sounded amazing (we were saving our stomachs for dessert…). But, the primi / first entrees were amazing. I went on to spaghetti with clams that was absolutely delicious. Claudio went for a gricia (a delicious traditional Roman entrée that I have no idea what was made off, but was great). The carbonara a friend of mine ordered also tasted divinely. Food was delicious! And specially with a great Brunello de Montalcino! Marvellous!

Dessert was simply amazing. I already told you I judge Italian restaurants for their tiramisu – and, under that definition, this would probably be the best I ever tasted!

Felice is a nice, cosy and friendly place, perfect for a good dinner that flavours Italian tastes! It has that authentic Roman ambience that only good food is able to bring – and, did I already told you, Roberto Benigni was there next to us? How could it be more authentic and enjoyable?

Where: Roma - Italy

Address: Via Mastro Giorgio, 29

Phone: +39 06 5746800

Website: http://www.feliceatestaccio.it/

Expensive: Around €30 per person, for the menu .described above

Last visit: April 2012