Once in a while, you have to go
to a really posh restaurant! And, let me tell you, to go to a molecular cuisine
one that is aiming to its first Michelin star might be a really good
experience. And least, that’s what I felt from Belcanto.
Belcanto is the new restaurant
from José de Avillez, one of Portugal ’s
prime (and younger) chefs. The restaurant exists since 1958, just next to the
house where the Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was born and São Carlos Opera
House – hence its name. The building is a classical one – both out and indoors.
The exception is the small corner, where you can read one of Pessoa’s most
famous quotes – “Para ser grade sê inteiro”, “To be big, be whole” (the
translate is a bit lose, as it always is in poetry). As always, in Portugal , don’t
even think in going there before 20h30 – we went there at 20h as we had tickets
for a play…. And we were the only ones there for quite a while.
Now, as soon as you sit down, you
will start to be served starters or amuse-bouches – molecular style. First the
traditional bread and butter (but actually, part of the butter assortment
includes a walnut one), then a cod and grain crisp (yes, it really tastes like
cod and grain, the traditional Portuguese way), then something else weird and
with an unexpected flavour. Looking at the menu, you can also have a glimpse of
some out-of-the-ordinary starters and entrees: a “Horta da Galinha dos Ovos de
Ouro” (can be loosely translated as “The Goose that laid the golden eggs small
farm”, a delicious entrée made of egg, mushrooms and bread – but just keep in
mind that in Portuguese the story in about a chicken and not a goose), a
“Paisagem Alentejana” (a special way to prepare pig hands), a “Mergulho no Mar”
(a seabass with seaweeds and clams), “Ovos à Professor” (a special type of eggs
and sausage that actually seems quite fatty) or a “Strogonoff” (that seems to
actually be a sinderloin steak and scrambled eggs entrée). And believe me, the
textures, the flavours, are absolutely as surprising as the names!
Just make sure you do two things
– you pick up a nice Portuguese wine to ignite the flavours, tastes and smells
in your mouth. And you choose a nice dessert to round up your meal – and
believe me, the names of those dessert dishes are as surprising as of the
starters and entrees… and equally delicious!
When we were in Belcanto, we had
a terrific experience – part of it trying to guess what was behind each
amuse-bouche or name in the menu. We were also trying to guess if the woman
behind us, dining by herself and always taking notes on her moleskin was from
the “tyre company guide” (the Michelin one). If you want a dinner to impress in
Lisbon , just
before going to watch a play or an opera, I would strongly recommend Belcanto
Where: Lisboa - Portugal
Address: Largo de
São Carlos, 10
Phone: +351 21 342 0607
Website: www.joseavillez.pt
Expensive: Yes! Quite, for Portugal ! Think of a dinner to be over
€70.
Last visit: April 2012
