El Botín

Have you ever wondered what the oldest restaurant in the world is? And how it is to eat in it? Well, then, let me invite you to ride with me in a trip to Madrid, where we find El Botín (also known as “Sobriño del Botín”). Right in the center of Madrid, this restaurant was founded in 1725 – making it older than the US or the French Revolution. It is said that Goya worked here as a dishwasher, between these old brick walls and Hemingway boasted it as being the best restaurant in the world – a over-hyped statement, let me tell you.

El Botin is a beautiful restaurant. It is rather cosy – which is natural if you think it sits in a 400-year old building right in the middle on Madrid’s old town. It still is a big building – 3 storeys high, many rooms, a basement. But you always have the feeling that people are around you - you can never pretend you are alone with your girlfriend. Maybe the old décor, white, red and timber also help it. But, altogether, it fuels the feeling that you are in something old.

Ask for some starters from Castilla – like a good plate of “jamon ibérico”, “manchego cheese”, the spicy “pimentos pardon”… But they are just appetizers – because you need to prepare yourself for the entrée. El Botin specialty is the suckling pig – the “cochonillo”. Very tender, very soft, very delicious, very good. It is a castillan traditional dish, and you will love it – I do! An alternative might be the roasted lamb, another specialty from the house – but one that I can’t tell you about, as I never tried it myself. Any of those entrees is better enjoyed with a good Spanish red wine – like a Marques de Cáceres, a reserve with a great taste, perfect for these meats.

If you are in Madrid, you should go Botin. It is the world’s oldest restaurant, according to the Guiness Book. And it is a great experience – both from the place and the food that comes straight out of the 18^th century. Just don’t forget to ask the concierge to take you a picture with your traditional entrée, next to the big ovens where it is cooked – believe me, it is a souvenir almost as good as the roast meat taste in your mouth!

Where: Madrid - Spain

Address: Calle de los cuchilleros, 17 - Madrid

Phone: +34 91366 4217

Website: http://www.botin.es

Expensive: Around €50

Last visit: December 2011

A Tal da Pizza

Let’s talk about pizzas! Pizzas are an easy choice in São Paulo – actually, I would say pizzas are one of the traditional dishes of São Paulo. Everybody likes them and has their opinion about which is best. Is this the Italian heritage of the city surfacing up?

“A Tal da Pizza” is a “posh but we are also kind of relaxed” place to enjoy a good pizza meal in São Paulo. I have been to the one in Itaim Bibi, and the first message if you pretend to go there on a weekend is… book first or go really soon! If not, you’ll have to wait – it is as simple as so. Now, if you actually come in, you will be facing a big, open room, absolutely full with tables and chairs, in an orderly chaos, mixed with red and timber decoration… and with a massive oven (a wooden one) at the back of the restaurant. That is where the cooking is done in front of you, and the mastery of the cooks and the oven will be responsible for the “yummi” feeling you will have in a few minutes.

There are a couple of specific things that are not very usual outside of this place. I think the first one is that there isn’t any cutlery – yes, you eat directly with your hands and fingers, without any help from any kind of fork and knife. And yes, you do this in a posh environment (the prices enforce it), surrounded by beautiful people. For any pizza, you will have to choose it’s halves – meaning, you can can choose half of a a pizza, and then complete it with a very different one. And it will arrive your table already sliced in tiny pieces – that will actually make it easier as finger food…

Now… for the pizzas. They are thin and delicious! And, if it would be any other way, I wouldn’t be writing this text. The ingredients are… tasty! You will find white truffles, mascarpone, olive oil and garlic, pepper, parmeggiano, tomato, several types of sausage, catupiry cheese, ham, olives, shitake, Dijon moustard, anchovies, tuna, shimeji, cheese and red-fruits jam,… All in the right proportion and incredibly mixed! Great for your senses! (and don’t ask me about desserts here! They seem to have great sweet pizzas for that, but I just had to shout enough…)

Do you like pizzas and happen to be in São Paulo? Go to “A Tal da Pizza”, eat with your hands in a posh environment and pay more than you expect. But, your senses will love that wooden-oven…

Where: São Paulo - Brazil

Address: Rua Dr. Mario Ferraz, 351- Itaim Bibi

Phone: +55 11 3079 3599

Website: http://www.ataldapizza.com.br

Expensive: Pizza a 1 beer for around 35 euros…

Last visit: November 2011

Wine: Quinta do Côtto

I really like red wine from Douro valley, in Portugal - I guess you already know it by now! And this one is a great choice! It is one of those close wines, that doesn't let go that much at the beginning - but then, it starts opening up, slowly, revealing a mixture of red berries and timber to your nose. Then, as you taste it, it settles in, calmly, tenderly, letting go its fruits, spices and a bit of timber, that endures in your mouth. In my opinion, it is a great choice for some game dishes, red meat and cheese - especially as (at least in Portugal) it really isn't an expensive wine.

Website: http://www.quintadocotto.pt/

Soteropolitano

I am a very lucky person – I always have someone to guide me to great restaurants. That was the only way I could have found Soteropolitano, and, therefore, great food from Bahia!

Bahia is in the Northeast of Brazil, and is a melting pot of its own. Former slavery harbour, once the most important European city in the continent, thriving with African rooted religions, Muslims and Catholics, Portuguese and Dutch, and then blessed by a rich bay from where it takes it’s name – it comes to no surprise that Bahia has such great food! And for anyone visiting Brazil, it should be compulsory to get away from the better known picanha and to taste all the richness this North-eastern food cuisine has to offer.

Soteropolitano is located in the trendy and bohemian neighbourhood of Vila Madalena – one of the hippest place in São Paulo. The restaurant in itself is a small vila, and when you get there you fully understand what it means. It is a house – literally! The dining room is not one, but several small ones, with tables here and there, maximizing the use of the space. The toilets are also adapted from regular bathrooms. And there is also a small area outside, adapted from a small garden, where you can enjoy your meal – and, in my opinion, this is the “best seat in the house”!

Then, it is time for choosing your food – and from all the great options that Bahia has to offer. As a starter, you can order an “acarajé”, an afro-brazilian bun (but actually a bit bitter and not made of bread), that you can then prepare with small shrimps, vatapá (don’t ask, just bear in mind it is damn good!), vegetables, an assortment fo sauces,… Believe me – ask one to share and you will find it delicious. Then, it is time to actually order starters. And I really like “moqueca” or “bobó”! Moqueca is a fish and shellfish stew prepared with a number of different spices – in Sotoporetano, you elect from several kinds of shrimp, crabs, fish… Bobó is also a delicacy from Brazilian Northeast, a delicious creamy shrimp dish – one of my top entrées! There are other options, like great fish or dried meat entrees, but, these two, are

You don’t know food from Bahia? You should! And if you are in São Paulo, Soteropolitano is the perfect place to do so! With some friends, a beer in your hand and good, easy flowing conversation. As that will be complementing good food, the rest of the day or night will be close to perfection.

Where: São Paulo - Brazil

Address: Rua Fidalga, 340- Vila Madalena

Phone: +55 11 3034 4881

Expensive: Around €40

Last visit: November 2011